

Do you know Unknown
Mami? She's awesome and she's started a fun Sunday theme inviting you to get out and take pictures of your city to share with the rest of us.
Click here for details and her logo and
click here to see Unknown Mami's City today. She has initiated this series of posts based on personal travel impressions, a very informal and personal travel log from people all over the world.
My friend Joanna, author of a wonderful blog, "The Fifty Factor" that you can check out at
this address, put me on this path and I am grateful that she did.
Here is my contribution of
"Sunday in the City" travel blog. I hope you will find it interesting.
DISCOVERING JAPANESE BRUSH PAINTING IN KYOTOMany of the visitors to my blog asked me if the art work I use here is mine. It is, and here is the story of how I became a curious at first, and then a passionate student of brush painting.

This is the story of my travels to Kyoto, an amazing historical and cultural center of Japan, and the unexpected discoveries I have made there.
You know how it is when travel: we go and allow ourselves to experience the journey, not knowing what effect on our mind and soul what we see will some day have.
The site that really captured my heart is the enigmatic and the very romantic
Nijo Castle,
Nijo-
jo, as people there call it.
It was build in 1603 by the first Tokugawa shogun, Ieyasu, the one that started a very important cultural revolution in Japan, the
Edo Period, marked by some of the most graceful pieces of ceramic, painting, screen. All arts flourished during this period. Tokugawa Ieyasu is the impressive historical character in the popular book SHOGUN, by James
Clavell.
Nijo-
jo is built almost entirely of Japanese cypress, with delicate would carvings and screens painted by the Kano school. Taking pictures was not allowed inside the castle. But, just to give you an idea about how beautiful these screens are, here are two of the famous screens painted by the founder of the Kano school, Kano Eitoku (1543-1590) who revolutionized the Japanese brush painting and screen painting.

His unmistakable style is characterized by bold broad strokes, flowing freely, rather than painstakingly stylized as the artists before him did. He was considered one of the most prominent artists of his time and was under the protection of Toyotomi Hideyoshi, the daimyo who united Japan. He was a protector of arts and culture and started the Momoyama Period. Toward the end of his career, he started painting in more and more bold strokes creating a special feeling and state of mind in the viewer. His work served as inspiration, centuries later, for the French Impressionists.
While I was in Kyoto, there was a large visiting exhibit at the Museum of Art with original screens painted by Kano Eitoku. It was fantastically beautiful. These two screens in the pictures, I have seen in original. Looking at them, changes the way you think, they are so powerful in the emotion they transmit over the centuries, that it feels as if they are painted before your eyes and your soul vibrates with those of the artist's, in complete unison.

At the Nijo Castle, there were many screens similar with the ones above, from the same school of painting but few hundreds years later. One of the larger chambers of the castle is "The Hall of Chrysanthemums." It has few larger than life six feet tool panels, dressed in gold leaf and painted over with white, immense, voluptuous chrysanthemums. They were so large and so luminous that had an almost hypnotic effect. They were perfect in every way, except for an occasional small petal, often at the top of the flower, that was folded in a funny, unexpected direction, bravely defying the perfect symmetry of its sister petals. It was as if, after doing a masterful work, the artist wanted to remind the amazed viewer that even in the most formal, perfect painting, there is room to lighten up and have fun. These panels were executed in Japanese brush painting style, an old art form learned by the Japanese artists from their Chinese counterparts who invented it many centuries ago.
I believe to this day that it was the astounding beauty of these panels and the playful, brave little stray petals, moved me so deeply that as soon as I arrived back in LA, the first think I did was to find a Chinese brush painting teacher. That was a year and a half ago. I am still a beginner. I am still learning the simple but sophisticated technique of loading the brush. But I continue to be fascinated by the grace and beauty of this art form and I keep learning and practicing.
Chinese brush painting is done on rice paper. Once you made a stroke, it can never be erased. If it's not right, you can not correct it. The Chinese brush painting teachers often say that if you made a mistake, it is a happy accident, it is the way it was meant to be, and it organically becomes part of the painting. You need to accept it and leave it alone. If you try to correct it, you will only emphasise the mistake but will fail to fix it. In the end, you will bear the full fault for ruining a perfectly good painting.
Here are other images of Kyoto, a fascinating, old cultural center, where traditional architecture and temples blend in with modern skyscrapers and European sidewalk cafes.
This is a picture from the
Heian Shrine--
Shinen Garden, landscaped in Meiji Era style. It is famous for its changing maple leaves in the fall and its weeping cherry trees in the spring.
This is the emperor's private garden at the Kyoto Imperial Palace, in the rain, in November. Even though raining, the tours were not canceled. Everyone, including the guide, was braving through the rain drops to see only the outside of the Palace. Tourists can not go inside unless they have a very special permit, seldom granted.
The imperial family dwelt in this palace from 1331 until 1868 when they moved to Tokyo. It was destroyed by fire several times but rebuilt identically with the original, every time. The style is in keeping with the
Heian Period--peaceful but somewhat stark and somber.
One of the most famous rock garden in Japan is the one at the Ryoanji's temple, a Zen temple of the Rinzai tradition. It was created first between 1488-1499. It has 15 stones, but the garden is designed in such a way that not all 15 are visible from the same angle. Hence, it is very difficult to photograph the entire garden. It may seem, at the first sight, there isn't much to see, just rocks and gravel combed in a certain way. But when you sit down by it, and quiet down your thoughts, allowing only the peace of these rocks to keep you company, the effect is almost hypnotic.
I couldn't take my eyes off this garden. My eyes were scanning it from left to right and from right to left, each time discovering new ways in which the light falls on the rocks, new patterns on their faces, new dimensions of its space. The time seemed to have halted to a stop. We were in a timeless place, looking at an work of art, in awe, as the first viewer of this garden must have done centuries ago. For more info and viewing angle, you can use this link: http://learn.bowdoin.edu/japanesegardens/gardens/ryoan/ryoan-ji.html.

View of Ryoanji's rock garden.
Photo
Marcus Trimble.Many Japanese now believe that the "Old Japan" is gone, being replaced by the modern life, architecture,
anime, and fashion. As tourists, we discovered that it takes some searching if you want to see the historical Japan, the world that mystified the Europeans in the 1800s by its strict rules, art, beauty and romantic mysteries. But all these are still there. You just need to be patient and scratch the surface. Nothing is really lost. It just changes.